Bags · Beginner

Drawstring bag

One rectangle, twice the height of the bag, folded in the middle. The two ends are turned hems, left open at the side seams, and they become the channels for the cord. Pull the cord and the bag closes.

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All steps, charts, sizes and checks (for printing)

Virtual test knit

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Every row of every piece on this page has just been knitted on a model of your machine, for the size, machine and gauge you chose. The model follows each needle's loops through transfers, held needles, hems and cast-offs, then measures the finished pieces.

260 rows and 18,720 stitches knitted, 0 stitches transferred, 0 held-needle passes: no dropped stitch, no hole, no lost loop, every stitch cast off or secured at the end.

Measured on the simulated pieces
Measurement	Should be	Simulated
Width	23–25 cm	✓ 24 cm
Length, flat	58.5–61.5 cm	✓ 60.5 cm
Rows end where they started	0–0 rows	✓ 0 rows

The simulation checks the instructions and the arithmetic. Yarn, tension and blocking still differ from knitter to knitter, so knit the gauge swatch first and type in your own numbers. Knitted one? We would love a photo: support@purlbed.com.

Medium · Single bed, punch card · Gauge (stocking stitch, after steaming): 30 sts × 40 rows

Sizes

Measurement	Medium	Small
Width	24 cm	18 cm
Height	30 cm	22 cm

You will need

Yarn: A firm cotton or cotton blend that does not stretch with the load: 4-ply / fingering on a standard machine, DK on mid gauge, worsted on bulky.

About 55 g in total for this size (an estimate from the area of the pieces; buy a little more).

Also: Tapestry needle, Waste yarn (single bed), Cord or ribbon, about 2.5 times the width, two pieces

Gauge swatch first

Cast on 40 needles with waste yarn and knit a few rows. Change to the main yarn and choose a tension that gives a fabric you like (see the starting points below).
Knit 60 rows. Tie a contrast thread to the 11th needle from each side at row 10 and row 50, so the marks are 20 needles and 40 rows apart.
Knit a few rows of waste yarn and take the swatch off. Steam or wash it the way you will treat the finished piece, and let it rest flat for a few hours.
Measure between the marks: stitches in 10 cm = 20 ÷ width in cm × 10, rows in 10 cm = 40 ÷ height in cm × 10. Type the two numbers into the gauge boxes above; that tension is your main tension (MT).

Pieces

Bag body

Cast on 72 sts, 260 rows. Flat size about 24 × 60.5 cm.

Row by row

Bring 72 needles into work (L36 to R36). Cast on with waste yarn, knit about 10 rows, 1 row of ravel cord, then change to the main yarn. Set RC to 000.
Turned hem: knit 8 rows at MT−1, 1 row at MT+2 (the fold line) and 8 rows at MT−1. Hang the loops of the first main-yarn row (just above the waste yarn) back on the needles, then knit 1 row at MT (RC 018). Remove the waste yarn later.
Knit 225 rows at MT (RC 243).
Closing hem: knit 8 rows at MT−1, 1 row at MT+2 and 8 rows at MT−1 (RC 260), then a few rows of waste yarn, and release. Fold the hem inside along the loose row and sew the open loops to the first hem row.

Bed chart

Row 1 is at the bottom. Arrows mark the transfers; the key under the chart names each colour.

Needle notation

Step 1 at the bottom; only the needles around the changes are shown.

Row sequence (7)

Rows	What the carriage knits	Tension
1–8	Stocking stitch	MT−1
9	Stocking stitch	MT+2
10–17	Stocking stitch	MT−1
18–243	Stocking stitch	MT
244–251	Stocking stitch	MT−1
252	Stocking stitch	MT+2
253–260	Stocking stitch	MT−1

Opens a copy of this piece as an editable bed chart in your browser.

Finishing

Weave in the ends and steam lightly.
Fold the body in half at the middle, right sides together. Sew the side seams from the bottom up to the channels, and leave the channel hems open at the sides.
Turn right side out. Thread one cord through both channels, starting at one side, and tie the ends. Thread a second cord the other way round, starting at the other side. Pull both together to close.

Notes and changes

The sizes are starting values from common drawstring bags, not rules: change them in the size boxes. The channel is a 2 cm hem, wide enough for a thin cord.
Two cords pulling in opposite directions close the bag evenly; one cord also works.

What the words mean

Short rows (引返): knitting only some of the needles for a few rows while the others wait. The middle grows taller than the sides, which makes a cup: that is how the heel and toe of a sock get their curve.
Hold: the needle position for short rows: a needle pushed all the way forward keeps its stitch and does not knit while the carriage is set to hold.
Turned hem: a neat double edge: knit a strip, then fold it up and hang its first row back on the needles, so the edge is a fold instead of a raw cast-on.
1×1 rib: one stitch on the main bed, one on the ribber, side by side: the stretchy edge of socks, cuffs and hat brims. Needs a ribber or a double bed.
Decrease / increase: making the piece one stitch narrower or wider at the edge. Fully fashioned means moving the 2 edge stitches in (or out) with a transfer tool, so the edge stays smooth for sewing.
Transfer tool: the small hook (1, 2 or 3 prongs) that lifts stitches off needles and puts them on others.
Waste yarn: a few rows in a spare colour knitted before or after the piece and pulled out later, leaving open loops to hang back or sew.
MT (main tension): the tension dial number of your gauge swatch. MT−1 is one number tighter, MT+2 two numbers looser.
RC (row counter): the counter on the carriage. Set it to 000 after casting on; every step says what it should read when the step is done.
L10 / R10: needle numbers, counted outwards from the middle (0) of the needle bed.
Mattress stitch: the usual way to sew knitted pieces together: you catch the bar between the first two stitches on each side, so the seam disappears.
Duplicate stitch: embroidery that follows a knitted stitch's V shape with a needle and a second colour, so the pattern looks knitted in.

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Drawstring bag

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