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Socks · Easy

Baby socks

Baby socks: AI picture of the finished item
AI picture of what this pattern makes, drawn to its own construction (hems, shaping, seams). Not a photo of a real piece.

Built like the everyday socks, just very small: the whole sock is a strip a few centimetres wide. The short-row heel gives the sock a real heel cup, and that is what keeps it on a kicking foot. A pair takes an evening. You need a machine whose needles can wait in hold; a hand flat cannot do it.

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All steps, charts, sizes and checks (for printing)

Virtual test knit

✓ Virtual test knit passed

Every row of every piece on this page has just been knitted on a model of your machine, for the size, machine and gauge you chose. The model follows each needle's loops through transfers, held needles, hems and cast-offs, then measures the finished pieces.

286 rows and 4,176 stitches knitted, 0 stitches transferred, 400 held-needle passes: no dropped stitch, no hole, no lost loop, every stitch cast off or secured at the end.

Measured on the simulated pieces
MeasurementShould beSimulated
Sock circumference (two layers)10.2–11.6 cm✓ 10.7 cm
Foot length, back of heel to toe tip7.5–9.5 cm✓ 8.5 cm
Leg height above the heel, with cuff6–8 cm✓ 7 cm
Heel and toe cups: needles left knitting in the middle25–45 %✓ 37.5 %
Rows to ease into each side seam0–3 rows✓ 2 rows

The simulation checks the instructions and the arithmetic. Yarn, tension and blocking still differ from knitter to knitter, so knit the gauge swatch first and type in your own numbers. Knitted one? We would love a photo: support@purlbed.com.

Baby 0–6 months · Single bed, punch card · Gauge (stocking stitch, after steaming): 30 sts × 40 rows

Sizes

MeasurementBaby 0–6 monthsBaby 6–12 months
Foot circumference (round the ball of the foot)12 cm13 cm
Foot length9 cm11 cm
Leg above the heel5 cm6 cm
Cuff depth2 cm2 cm

You will need

Yarn: Soft, washable sock yarn or superwash merino (4-ply / fingering) on a standard 4.5 mm machine. Avoid fluffy yarns: babies put their feet in their mouths.

About 15 g in total for this size (an estimate from the area of the pieces; buy a little more).

Also: Tapestry needle, Waste yarn (single bed), Hold levers or buttons set on the carriage

Gauge swatch first

  1. Cast on 40 needles with waste yarn and knit a few rows. Change to the main yarn and choose a tension that gives a fabric you like (see the starting points below).
  2. Knit 60 rows. Tie a contrast thread to the 11th needle from each side at row 10 and row 50, so the marks are 20 needles and 40 rows apart.
  3. Knit a few rows of waste yarn and take the swatch off. Steam or wash it the way you will treat the finished piece, and let it rest flat for a few hours.
  4. Measure between the marks: stitches in 10 cm = 20 ÷ width in cm × 10, rows in 10 cm = 40 ÷ height in cm × 10. Type the two numbers into the gauge boxes above; that tension is your main tension (MT).

Pieces

Sock (knit 2)

Cast on 16 sts, 143 rows. Flat size about 5.3 × 31.3 cm.

Row by row

  1. Bring 16 needles into work (L8 to R8). Cast on with waste yarn, knit about 10 rows, 1 row of ravel cord, then change to the main yarn. Set RC to 000.
  2. Turned hem: knit 8 rows at MT−1, 1 row at MT+2 (the fold line) and 8 rows at MT−1. Hang the loops of the first main-yarn row (just above the waste yarn) back on the needles, then knit 1 row at MT (RC 018). Remove the waste yarn later.
  3. Knit 20 rows at MT (RC 038).
  4. Short rows over all 16 needles (L8 to R8), to make the cup that curves round the heel or toe: for a while only the middle needles knit, the outer ones wait in hold. Set the carriage to hold. Before each row, push 1 needle on the side away from the carriage into hold, until 6 needles still knit in the middle (10 rows). Then, before each row, bring 1 held needle on the side away from the carriage back to work, until all 16 knit again (10 rows). Take the yarn under the end needle at each turn so no holes form. Release the hold (RC 058).
  5. The heel is done; now knit the sole. Knit 14 rows at MT (RC 072).
  6. Short rows over all 16 needles (L8 to R8), to make the cup that curves round the heel or toe: for a while only the middle needles knit, the outer ones wait in hold. Set the carriage to hold. Before each row, push 1 needle on the side away from the carriage into hold, until 6 needles still knit in the middle (10 rows). Then, before each row, bring 1 held needle on the side away from the carriage back to work, until all 16 knit again (10 rows). Take the yarn under the end needle at each turn so no holes form. Release the hold (RC 092).
  7. The toe is done; now knit the top of the foot back towards the cuff. Knit 14 rows at MT (RC 106).
  8. Knit 20 rows at MT (RC 126).
  9. Closing hem: knit 8 rows at MT−1, 1 row at MT+2 and 8 rows at MT−1 (RC 143), then a few rows of waste yarn, and release. Fold the hem inside along the loose row and sew the open loops to the first hem row.
Bed chart
Row 1 is at the bottom. Arrows mark the transfers; the key under the chart names each colour.
Needle notation

Step 1 at the bottom; only the needles around the changes are shown.

Row sequence (47)
RowsWhat the carriage knitsTension
1–8Stocking stitchMT−1
9Stocking stitchMT+2
10–17Stocking stitchMT−1
18–38Stocking stitchMT
39Stocking stitch · hold 1MT
40Stocking stitch · hold 2MT
41Stocking stitch · hold 3MT
42Stocking stitch · hold 4MT
43Stocking stitch · hold 5MT
44Stocking stitch · hold 6MT
45Stocking stitch · hold 7MT
46Stocking stitch · hold 8MT
47Stocking stitch · hold 9MT
48Stocking stitch · hold 10MT
49Stocking stitch · hold 9MT
50Stocking stitch · hold 8MT
51Stocking stitch · hold 7MT
52Stocking stitch · hold 6MT
53Stocking stitch · hold 5MT
54Stocking stitch · hold 4MT
55Stocking stitch · hold 3MT
56Stocking stitch · hold 2MT
57Stocking stitch · hold 1MT
58–72Stocking stitchMT
73Stocking stitch · hold 1MT
74Stocking stitch · hold 2MT
75Stocking stitch · hold 3MT
76Stocking stitch · hold 4MT
77Stocking stitch · hold 5MT
78Stocking stitch · hold 6MT
79Stocking stitch · hold 7MT
80Stocking stitch · hold 8MT
81Stocking stitch · hold 9MT
82Stocking stitch · hold 10MT
83Stocking stitch · hold 9MT
84Stocking stitch · hold 8MT
85Stocking stitch · hold 7MT
86Stocking stitch · hold 6MT
87Stocking stitch · hold 5MT
88Stocking stitch · hold 4MT
89Stocking stitch · hold 3MT
90Stocking stitch · hold 2MT
91Stocking stitch · hold 1MT
92–126Stocking stitchMT
127–134Stocking stitchMT−1
135Stocking stitchMT+2
136–143Stocking stitchMT−1
Opens a copy of this piece as an editable bed chart in your browser.

Finishing

  1. Weave in the ends well on the inside and remove any waste yarn.
  2. Fold the sock in half at the toe (the middle of the second short-row cup), right sides out, so the cuffs meet.
  3. Sew both sides with mattress stitch from the toe to the cuffs, matching row for row. Keep the seams flat, so nothing rubs.
  4. Sew the ends of the cuffs together and steam lightly.

Notes and changes

  • Measure the baby's foot if you can: babies grow fast and the sizes are only a guide. A sock a little long is fine; one too short is not.
  • The leg height above the heel is a starting value. A longer leg can be folded down and stays on better.

What the words mean

Short rows (引返)
knitting only some of the needles for a few rows while the others wait. The middle grows taller than the sides, which makes a cup: that is how the heel and toe of a sock get their curve.
Hold
the needle position for short rows: a needle pushed all the way forward keeps its stitch and does not knit while the carriage is set to hold.
Turned hem
a neat double edge: knit a strip, then fold it up and hang its first row back on the needles, so the edge is a fold instead of a raw cast-on.
1×1 rib
one stitch on the main bed, one on the ribber, side by side: the stretchy edge of socks, cuffs and hat brims. Needs a ribber or a double bed.
Decrease / increase
making the piece one stitch narrower or wider at the edge. Fully fashioned means moving the 2 edge stitches in (or out) with a transfer tool, so the edge stays smooth for sewing.
Transfer tool
the small hook (1, 2 or 3 prongs) that lifts stitches off needles and puts them on others.
Waste yarn
a few rows in a spare colour knitted before or after the piece and pulled out later, leaving open loops to hang back or sew.
MT (main tension)
the tension dial number of your gauge swatch. MT−1 is one number tighter, MT+2 two numbers looser.
RC (row counter)
the counter on the carriage. Set it to 000 after casting on; every step says what it should read when the step is done.
L10 / R10
needle numbers, counted outwards from the middle (0) of the needle bed.
Mattress stitch
the usual way to sew knitted pieces together: you catch the bar between the first two stitches on each side, so the seam disappears.
Duplicate stitch
embroidery that follows a knitted stitch's V shape with a needle and a second colour, so the pattern looks knitted in.

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