Purlbed

Mittens & mitts · Beginner

Newborn scratch mittens

The quickest first project on a knitting machine. Each mitten is one flat piece: cuff, palm, a rounded tip made with fully fashioned decreases and increases, back of the hand and a second cuff. Fold it at the tip and sew the two sides. On a machine with a ribber or a double bed the cuffs are 1×1 rib; on a single bed they are turned hems.

Suits these machines

Techniques used

Your size, machine and gauge

Size
Gauge (stocking stitch, after steaming)
Typical starting points
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Virtual test knit

✓ Virtual test knit passed

Every row of every piece on this page has just been knitted on a model of your machine, for the size, machine and gauge you chose. The model follows each needle's loops through transfers, held needles, hems and cast-offs, then measures the finished pieces.

198 rows and 3,254 stitches knitted, 32 stitches transferred, 0 held-needle passes: no dropped stitch, no hole, no lost loop, every stitch cast off or secured at the end.

Measured on the simulated pieces
MeasurementShould beSimulated
Mitten circumference (two layers)10.5–12 cm✓ 11.3 cm
Hand length, cuff to fingertip5.5–7 cm✓ 6 cm
Rows to ease into each side seam0–3 rows✓ 2 rows

The simulation checks the instructions and the arithmetic. Yarn, tension and blocking still differ from knitter to knitter, so knit the gauge swatch first and type in your own numbers. Knitted one? We would love a photo: support@purlbed.com.

0–3 months · Single bed, punch card · Gauge (stocking stitch, after steaming): 30 sts × 40 rows

Sizes

Measurement0–3 months3–6 months
Mitten circumference11 cm12 cm
Mitten length, cuff to tip9 cm10.5 cm
Cuff depth3 cm3.5 cm

You will need

Yarn: Soft, washable baby yarn: 4-ply / fingering on a standard 4.5 mm machine, DK on mid gauge. Cotton or merino keeps them gentle on new skin.

About 10 g in total for this size (an estimate from the area of the pieces; buy a little more).

Also: Tapestry needle, 2-prong transfer tool, Waste yarn and ravel cord (single bed)

Gauge swatch first

  1. Cast on 40 needles with waste yarn and knit a few rows. Change to the main yarn and choose a tension that gives a fabric you like (see the starting points below).
  2. Knit 60 rows. Tie a contrast thread to the 11th needle from each side at row 10 and row 50, so the marks are 20 needles and 40 rows apart.
  3. Knit a few rows of waste yarn and take the swatch off. Steam or wash it the way you will treat the finished piece, and let it rest flat for a few hours.
  4. Measure between the marks: stitches in 10 cm = 20 ÷ width in cm × 10, rows in 10 cm = 40 ÷ height in cm × 10. Type the two numbers into the gauge boxes above; that tension is your main tension (MT).

Pieces

Mitten (knit 2)

Cast on 17 sts, 99 rows. Flat size about 5.7 × 18.3 cm.

Row by row

  1. Bring 17 needles into work (L8 to R9). Cast on with waste yarn, knit about 10 rows, 1 row of ravel cord, then change to the main yarn. Set RC to 000.
  2. Turned hem: knit 12 rows at MT−1, 1 row at MT+2 (the fold line) and 12 rows at MT−1. Hang the loops of the first main-yarn row (just above the waste yarn) back on the needles, then knit 1 row at MT (RC 026). Remove the waste yarn later.
  3. Knit 17 rows at MT (RC 043).
  4. Decrease 1 stitch at each end on the next row and every 2 rows, 2 times in all: move the 2 edge stitches 1 needle in with the 2-prong tool and put the empty needle out of work. 17 → 13 sts (RC 047).
  5. Decrease 1 stitch at each end on the next row and every row, 2 times in all: move the 2 edge stitches 1 needle in with the 2-prong tool and put the empty needle out of work. 13 → 9 sts (RC 049).
  6. This is the tip of the mitten: the fold line. Knit 2 rows at MT (RC 051).
  7. Increase 1 stitch at each end on the next row and every row, 2 times in all: bring the next needle into work and hang the heel of the neighbouring stitch on it. 9 → 13 sts (RC 053).
  8. Increase 1 stitch at each end on the next row and every 2 rows, 2 times in all: bring the next needle into work and hang the heel of the neighbouring stitch on it. 13 → 17 sts (RC 057).
  9. Knit 17 rows at MT (RC 074).
  10. Closing hem: knit 12 rows at MT−1, 1 row at MT+2 and 12 rows at MT−1 (RC 099), then a few rows of waste yarn, and release. Fold the hem inside along the loose row and sew the open loops to the first hem row.
Bed chart
Row 1 is at the bottom. Arrows mark the transfers; the key under the chart names each colour.
Needle notation

Step 1 at the bottom; only the needles around the changes are shown.

Row sequence (15)
RowsWhat the carriage knitsTension
1–12Stocking stitchMT−1
13Stocking stitchMT+2
14–25Stocking stitchMT−1
26–43Stocking stitchMT
44–45Stocking stitchMT
46–47Stocking stitchMT
48Stocking stitchMT
49–51Stocking stitchMT
52Stocking stitchMT
53Stocking stitchMT
54–55Stocking stitchMT
56–74Stocking stitchMT
75–86Stocking stitchMT−1
87Stocking stitchMT+2
88–99Stocking stitchMT−1
Opens a copy of this piece as an editable bed chart in your browser.

Finishing

  1. Remove the waste yarn and weave in the ends.
  2. Fold the mitten in half at the tip (the 2 rows marked as the fold line), right sides together.
  3. Sew both sides with mattress stitch from the tip to the cuff, matching the shaping row for row.
  4. Turn right side out and steam lightly. Optional: thread a soft cord through the cuff so the mittens stay on.

Notes and changes

  • Newborn hands vary a lot; if in doubt knit the larger size, scratch mittens are worn loose.
  • For a longer cuff that folds back, add 1–2 cm to the cuff depth.
  • Sew the seams on the outside with a flat seam if the baby's skin is sensitive.

Abbreviations

MT
main tension: the tension dial setting of your gauge swatch. MT−1 is one number tighter, MT+2 two numbers looser.
RC
row counter. Set it to 000 after the cast on; the steps give the reading at the end of each step.
sts
stitches. One working needle holds one stitch.
L10 / R10
needle numbers, counted outwards from the centre 0 of the needle bed.
Hold
a needle pushed fully forward keeps its stitch and does not knit while the carriage is set to hold.
Waste yarn
a contrast yarn knitted before or after the piece and unravelled later, so open loops can be hung or sewn.
Fully fashioned
decreasing or increasing 2 stitches in from the edge with a transfer tool, so the edge stays smooth for seaming.

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