Jacquard (Fair Isle) › Colour patterns without selection
Butt-height colour patterns and manual colour options on Dubied
Fixed geometric checks, squares, zigzags, dominoes and scallops in two colours, repeating across the full width. In tuck versions (2-colour half/full cardigan), soft vertical colour ribs. Needles are physically set up as high- or low-butt before knitting.
- Single bed
Machine types that can knit it
Demo swatch
Drawn for: Double-bed hand flat (V-bed)Approximate preview worked out from the bed chart, not a photo.
Steps
- Draw the 2-colour repeat; columns are high or low butt.
- Rearrange the needles to match (time-consuming; plan once).
- Pass set A: colour 1, cams on all needles.
- Pass set B: colour 2, cams on high butts only (low butts slip or tuck).
- Repeat; vary the row counts or rack between sets for movement.
The full card
- What it looks like
- Fixed geometric checks, squares, zigzags, dominoes and scallops in two colours, repeating across the full width. In tuck versions (2-colour half/full cardigan), soft vertical colour ribs.
- How it behaves
- Mostly double-bed rib-based fabrics; slip versions are firmer; tuck versions are thicker and wider.
- How it works
- Needles are physically set up as high- or low-butt before knitting. The raising cams can act on all needles or on high butts only. A middle key position floats the yarn past the low-butt needles (knit/slip). Knit colour 1 with all needles, then colour 2 with high butts only (low butts slip). The butt layout is the "card". Autocam/discam drum devices change the cam settings per pass automatically, but they do not select individual needles.
- Machines
- Dubied with the "H" designation (high and low butt needles), e.g. NHF2/NHF4. Older MR/MM models have no patterning beyond hand transfer.
- Parameters
- butt layout repeat (any width, but fixed for the piece); rows per colour (2–4 typical); racking adds diagonal displacement of the pattern.
- Steps
- 1) Draw the 2-colour repeat; columns are high or low butt. 2) Rearrange the needles to match (time-consuming; plan once). 3) Pass set A: colour 1, cams on all needles. 4) Pass set B: colour 2, cams on high butts only (low butts slip or tuck). 5) Repeat; vary the row counts or rack between sets for movement.
- Charting
- Needle-layout strip above the chart (H/L per needle per bed). Row column with colour + cam mode ("All", "H only", "Tuck L"). The colour chart is derived (cells computed).
- Limits and common problems
- The layout is per piece, not per row, so no pictures. Swapping needles mid-piece is impractical. Hand selection per row on a Dubied (pushing needles out of action and back for each colour) is theoretically possible on small areas but slow and error-prone [unverified as practised; inference]. True jacquard, intarsia pictures and reversible DBJ on a Dubied: impractical. Practical Dubied colour palette: stripes; butt-layout checks; plating (incl. plated rib); tuck/cardigan colour; colour ripples (partial ottoman, front bed only); transfers in colour.
Written in our own words from machine manuals, knitting references and swatching. Knit a test swatch before a whole piece.