Purlbed

Garment making › Necklines

Neckline shaped on waste yarn (divide and rehang)

A round or V neckline whose two sides look the same as in a holding-shaped neck, but the centre stitches show the soft edge of loops that went onto waste yarn, ready to be picked up for the neckband. Instead of holding needles, whole sections of the knitting come off the machine on waste yarn.

Machine types that can knit it

Demo swatch

Drawn for: Single bed, no patterning
Approximate preview worked out from the bed chart, not a photo.Part of this technique is done by hand (hooking up, chaining or closing loops); the demo shows the knitted base.
Bed chart
15101520253035→←→←→←→←→←→←→←→←→←→←→←→←→←→←→←→←→←→←Front bedOut of work1 square = 1 stitch × 1 row · read from the bottom · Single bed, manual, 36 needles
Needle notation, first steps
1. Rows 1–14: knit 14 rowsStocking stitchcarriage →bed2. Rows 15–20: knit 6 rowsStocking stitchcarriage →bed3. Rows 21–23: knit 3 rowsStocking stitchcarriage →bed4. Rows 24–26: knit 3 rowsStocking stitch← carriagebedShowing needles L12–R12 of 36; repeat across the working area.

Steps

  1. Knit the front to the start of the neckline.
  2. Knit the centre neck stitches and one side off on waste yarn, and leave the first side's needles in work. Or knit everything off on waste yarn and rehang one side.
  3. Shape the first side (decrease at the neck edge, shape the shoulder), then cast off or knit it off on waste yarn.
  4. Rehang the second side's loops from the waste yarn on the needles, the right way round.
  5. Shape it as a mirror of the first side.
  6. Keep the centre stitches on waste yarn for the neckband pickup.

The full card

What it looks like
A round or V neckline whose two sides look the same as in a holding-shaped neck, but the centre stitches show the soft edge of loops that went onto waste yarn, ready to be picked up for the neckband.
How it behaves
Flat.
How it works
Instead of holding needles, whole sections of the knitting come off the machine on waste yarn. One section is hung back on the needles and shaped while the others wait safely off the machine. Then the next section is rehung and shaped.
Machines
Any machine, including ones without a holding position (hand flats, simple machines): nothing waits in hold, so the carriage never has to skip needles [inference]. Waste yarn in a contrast colour, transfer tool, weights.
Parameters
Waste yarn: about 6–10 rows, at the same or a slightly looser tension, smooth and contrasting [unverified]. Sections: left shoulder, centre front, right shoulder, from your pattern.
Steps
1) Knit the front to the start of the neckline. 2) Knit the centre neck stitches and one side off on waste yarn, and leave the first side's needles in work. Or knit everything off on waste yarn and rehang one side. 3) Shape the first side (decrease at the neck edge, shape the shoulder), then cast off or knit it off on waste yarn. 4) Rehang the second side's loops from the waste yarn on the needles, the right way round. 5) Shape it as a mirror of the first side. 6) Keep the centre stitches on waste yarn for the neckband pickup.
Charting
Bed chart with the sections outlined; waste-yarn rows drawn in a contrast colour; hand steps in the row column: "off on waste yarn", "rehang left", "rehang right".
Limits and common problems
Rehanging a twisted or skipped loop leaves a dropped stitch or a ladder; rehang slowly with the purl side facing you [inference]. A fluffy waste yarn sheds into the main yarn.
Combines with
v-neck-holding (the holding method), machine-linking (neckband), button-stand-folded.
Pieces and assembly
Front necklines on machines without hold, or when you want to try the fit before shaping the second side [inference].

Written in our own words from machine manuals, knitting references and swatching. Knit a test swatch before a whole piece.

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