Purlbed

Hand knitting › Texture and colour

Stranded colourwork, two colours

Small repeating motifs in two colours on stocking stitch; the unused colour runs across the back in short loose strands (floats). Fair Isle is the Shetland form of it. Both yarns are carried along every round.

What you work it with

Hand knitting · Tools: A circular needle (worked in the round); two colours of wool with good contrast (light against dark); wool that grips, such as Shetland, helps the stitches sit even.

Symbol chart

One or two repeats of the stitch pattern, drawn as seen from the right side.
123456KnitRead from the bottom: every round right to left.

Steps

  1. Cast on a multiple of the motif and join in the round.
  2. Work a rib edge in one colour.
  3. Join the second colour; hold one colour in each hand or both in one hand.
  4. Knit each stitch in the colour the chart shows; spread the stitches on the right needle so the float behind is not tight.
  5. Catch a float that is longer than 5 stitches by twisting the yarns at the back.
  6. Keep the same colour on top all the way through, so the motif does not change shade.

The full card

What it looks like
Small repeating motifs in two colours on stocking stitch; the unused colour runs across the back in short loose strands (floats). Fair Isle is the Shetland form of it.
How it behaves
Double thickness and warm because of the floats; less stretchy than plain stocking stitch.
How it works
Both yarns are carried along every round. Each stitch is knitted in one colour while the other is carried behind; long floats are caught down every few stitches.
Tools
A circular needle (worked in the round); two colours of wool with good contrast (light against dark); wool that grips, such as Shetland, helps the stitches sit even.
Parameters
Floats no longer than about 5 stitches (about 2.5 cm); catch longer ones. Gauge: swatch in the colour pattern, in the round: it is usually tighter than plain stocking stitch.
Steps
1) Cast on a multiple of the motif and join in the round. 2) Work a rib edge in one colour. 3) Join the second colour; hold one colour in each hand or both in one hand. 4) Knit each stitch in the colour the chart shows; spread the stitches on the right needle so the float behind is not tight. 5) Catch a float that is longer than 5 stitches by twisting the yarns at the back. 6) Keep the same colour on top all the way through, so the motif does not change shade.
Charting
In the round, every round read right to left. This symbol chart shows the stitch (every stitch is knitted); the pattern's colour chart shades the squares of the second colour.
Limits and common problems
Tight floats pucker the fabric. Swapping which colour is held on top changes how strongly it shows. Worked flat, every other row is purled in two colours, which is harder; knit in the round and cut steeks for a cardigan.
Combines with
Stocking stitch (stockinette), 2×2 rib, Slip-stitch mosaic
Pieces and assembly
Yoke sweaters, hats, mittens; worked in the round, so plan the piece as a tube.

Written in our own words from machine manuals, knitting references and swatching. Knit a test swatch before a whole piece.

Related techniques