Purlbed

Hand knitting › Lace

Feather and fan (old shale)

Rows of scallops: a band of eyelets fans out, decreases gather it back, and the cast-on and cast-off edges become waves. Traditionally from Shetland. Once every 4 rows, a group of decreases at each side of a repeat pulls stitches together while a run of "yo, k1" in the middle adds the same number…

What you work it with

Hand knitting · Tools: Needles a size or two larger than usual for an open look; wool or a wool-silk blend; blocking pins.

Symbol chart

One or two repeats of the stitch pattern, drawn as seen from the right side.
1234Knit on RS, purl on WSK2tog (right-leaning decrease)Yarn overPurl on RS, knit on WSRead from the bottom: RS rows (odd) right to left, WS rows (even) left to right.

Steps

  1. Cast on a multiple of the repeat.
  2. Row 1 (RS): knit.
  3. Row 2 (WS): purl.
  4. Row 3 (RS): *(k2tog) twice, (yo, k1) four times, (k2tog) twice*; repeat.
  5. Row 4 (WS): knit, for a garter ridge.
  6. Repeat rows 1–4.

The full card

What it looks like
Rows of scallops: a band of eyelets fans out, decreases gather it back, and the cast-on and cast-off edges become waves. Traditionally from Shetland.
How it behaves
The decreases and yarn overs stacked in columns push the rows into deep waves; the fabric lies flat but with wavy edges.
How it works
Once every 4 rows, a group of decreases at each side of a repeat pulls stitches together while a run of "yo, k1" in the middle adds the same number back, so the rows bend up between the decrease columns.
Tools
Needles a size or two larger than usual for an open look; wool or a wool-silk blend; blocking pins.
Parameters
The classic repeat is 18 stitches and 4 rows. The chart shows a smaller 12-stitch version: 2 decreases each side and 4 yarn overs in the middle.
Steps
1) Cast on a multiple of the repeat. 2) Row 1 (RS): knit. 3) Row 2 (WS): purl. 4) Row 3 (RS): *(k2tog) twice, (yo, k1) four times, (k2tog) twice*; repeat. 5) Row 4 (WS): knit, for a garter ridge. 6) Repeat rows 1–4.
Charting
Read from the right side: slashes are k2tog, circles yo. Row 4 shows purl squares because it is knitted on the WS (a garter ridge on the RS).
Limits and common problems
Count yarn overs and decreases on row 3: one missing throws off the whole repeat. It needs at least one full repeat to form the waves[inference].
Combines with
Eyelet rows (simple lace), Leaf lace motif, Garter stitch
Pieces and assembly
Shawls, blankets and the hem of a sweater; stripes of colour follow the waves.

Written in our own words from machine manuals, knitting references and swatching. Knit a test swatch before a whole piece.

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